Sep
27

200 to 1

200 to 1, thats the change a day makes, Tuesday night 200 folks in the water, it felt like a mid summer Sunday crowd, tonight me, OK 5 ... more

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Sep
24

moody bugger

Man I've become a moody bugger the last couple of days, tired from surfing my nuts off, but afraid not to paddle out for just one ... more

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Sep
22

Big wave event at Fistral

A bit of BBC coverage from yesterdays Big wave event at Fistral.

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Sep
21
 
Sep
17

Best weekend of the year

Best weekend of the year, no question, even thinking back to those amazing waves of January, I've dreamed the last two ... more

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Sep
15

slack no photos

So I've been slack no photos for 6 weeks, but then you know what August was like, and you know what its like now, pumping, and one ... more

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Sep
13

K3 buoy 33ft / 11 seconds @ 9am ;-)

K3 buoy 33ft / 11 seconds @ 9am, I think the swell might be on its way some how.

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Sep
7

surfing has turned social and mellow

There are so many folks I haven't seen for ages, and suddenly with the waves back, they're all out back, and surfing has turned social and mellow, its back the way it should be, September.

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Sep
4

Skip Snead says

Just read this quote from Skip Snead "Giving a wave to a complete stranger is good for the heart", now the summer ... more

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Sep
2

They're back

Waves at last, it may not be lined up all that well, but its not pulsing around my ankles, and there's no option to walk out back, can ... more

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Sep
1

New Photos?

Well we tried, but close outs and blown out waves is all we could find when the camera was in tow. There was one guy on a stub nose who ... more

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