Surf Blog Archive
Dec
5
2005
glazed far away look
Twice I've met guys who cant stop describing the best barrels of their lives, scored last weekend. They both got that glazed far away look as they describe them, while jabbing on at 7 zillion words to the minute and then stop, at a loss for words, probably because they've used every word ever invented and then some. One scored by a body surfer who, had an in and out barrel sitting 6 ft plus behind the curtain at one point if accounts are true; now that's something to dream of.
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