putting on some L plates

Ok, I'm going to have to boast, Tuesday first thing, only 2 of us out to enjoy the first of the new swell, where did everybody go? Mind I was having one of those surfs where it all goes wrong, and you feel like putting on some L plates, climbing back on a swelly, and embracing kooks-vil. Luckily I scored a sweet little barrel and a long walling right to remind me I could surf, still its classic that with a great wave and an empty break, its the day i have to have my first "can't surf for toffee" session in months.