The Unity of ONE

Got back on an old school heavy single fin longboard after riding almost exclusively a 2+1 lightweight longboard for a year, and you know what, I'm in love again, don't get me wrong, I've not jilted the 2+1, she'll be back, but caught my first wave on the fat old mum-ma; sluggish bottom turn and I was pocket bound, next thing, I've got an armful of wave trying to kill all my speed and stay in that pocket, I'm fighting shit loads of white water, and loving every minute, I've got a ridiculously wet barrel, its a bath, but I pop out...grinnin, paddle back, next wave, late bottom turn, I hug the wave again, arm deep, man I'm getting clean, its bath time again...I paddle back for more grinning wider, big fat mamas rock, that slow graceful performance is way underrated, How did I forget?