Surf Blog Archive
Bootless...
We're up and off heading for a high tide bank hoping it'll still be sucking in some of yesterdays southerly swell, epic, no, but hopefully something mellow and log-able.
We rock up high on the sand dudes 10 mins apart, and watch two guys paddling for what looks like catchable waves, but there just backing off every time. We're not beaten, we banter, head back for the car, north bound again, looking for a wave.
The next two spots, well, just don't cut it, they look great from above, but when we walk down and check them properly, its just not happening, there's only one option left, start heading home, but grab some black gold (don't you love coffee) overlooking a beach on the way back.
And that black gold offered up a vision of a small clean wave, having driven the miles, we decide it'd be rude not to catch a few small peelers, foolishly we time limit the session by going bootless, and park up to put maximum distance between us and the breaking wave, by the time we've run the length of the beach twice and surfed, the feet have gone past painful and into numb, 2 hours later my feet finally feel normal again, I'll wait for march before I do that again.
The pics from the trip back, taken close to yesterdays shot.
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