2 lucky breaks

2009-01-11 19:36:40

Sunday, a slow day, no need to rush with the tide going low around 11.20 and the wind howling, everywhere is going to be a closeout or very short and hollow.

I do the chores, they've been waiting a while, and drive the long way round just to check porthmeor to get a gauge of size for later. What I see is peeling lefts out of foxholes, thank god I put the kit in the car.

Parked up, Mark wonders over to say hello, he's been waiting 2hrs for porthmeor to improve, with foxholes hidden from view, a quick conversation and were both heading in, we scored it, although the window was short.

Later I hit the spot I hoped would work, my paddle out, a disaster, there's so much water dragging along the bank, I jump in rapidly head sideways away from the peak. Feeling like a kook I strike back in, run up the shore and start again. This time its happening, I only get two good rides before the light fades, but they're fast, semi-hollow and peel forever.

PS. There were some serious cover-ups going down at boilers on the low tide, wish I'd had the camera to capture a few...next time...