2 lucky breaks
Sunday, a slow day, no need to rush with the tide going low around 11.20 and the wind howling, everywhere is going to be a closeout or very short and hollow.
I do the chores, they've been waiting a while, and drive the long way round just to check porthmeor to get a gauge of size for later. What I see is peeling lefts out of foxholes, thank god I put the kit in the car.
Parked up, Mark wonders over to say hello, he's been waiting 2hrs for porthmeor to improve, with foxholes hidden from view, a quick conversation and were both heading in, we scored it, although the window was short.
Later I hit the spot I hoped would work, my paddle out, a disaster, there's so much water dragging along the bank, I jump in rapidly head sideways away from the peak. Feeling like a kook I strike back in, run up the shore and start again. This time its happening, I only get two good rides before the light fades, but they're fast, semi-hollow and peel forever.
PS. There were some serious cover-ups going down at boilers on the low tide, wish I'd had the camera to capture a few...next time...
» Comments: 1
Really great day was looking down at boilers looked like some epic rides brilliant to watch top marks to everyone making it.
Headed for easy sunday surf at the bluff working other side of the mouth all the way to the point head to chest barrelling peeling 4 peeps and loads warmer happy days!!!
bring on monster weekend yeee haaa