shoulder plus peeling walls of joy

What a stunning surf, shoulder plus peeling walls of joy, sometimes a fall on charge down the line, sometimes, fast and furious turns floating out the end section, all under the gaze of a roasting sun which has left me wishing I'd slapped on the sun cream as the face now feels like a piece of old leather. Its a killer start to the Bank holiday weekend. And I feel sorry for the two guys learning, who ended up with 3 guys on longboards constantly padding around them and taking just about every decent wave!