Nov
12
2005

Sweet Bombs

A sweet late morning surf, from the top, not looking good, but once in, shoulder high peelers every now and again. So later thinking I should top if off with a late surf into darkness, I headed out into one of the worst paddle outs in a while, getting cleaned up nicely several times, then, settling in out back, saw the next big set, come in bigger still, paddle resumes, and settle in again, No, it all happens again, three times in a row, finally sitting way out back, launch myself into a bomb of a wave and take it to the shore under the eye of the moon and the setting sun, enough paddling for one day.

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