15 mins paddling nowhere

Paddled out yesterday into clean 6-7ft waves, got swept down the beach and spent 15 mins paddling nowhere getting cleaned up nicely, finally brain instead of brawn took over and a quick return to the beach and re-entry in the rip had me out back in no time. Grinning replaced swearing and I got ready to find that bomb; But No, that bomb found me, as an outside set came in, no time to paddle for the sky, three on the head, and I decide this is not what I signed up for this Sunny Saturday morning, especially the lung full of water I'd just taken on the last wave, apparently I'm not a fish, so took two inside waves to the beach and headed back home for breakfast...Oh and to the boys who took on Mullaghmore (Ireland) Friday and ended up having to get rescued by helicopter, my hats off to you for taking it on, I think I would have been bricking myself.